Not usually true. your Jeep axles may not be strong enough for your seriously oversized tires, or a totally untrained throttle foot, but the engine itself with good driving on most terrain will not require axle changes.
Our experience has been otherwise. And it's better to under-work an overcapable engine than to over-work an undercapable engine. And there are enough engines of varying displacements and power levels in the GM line-up that you will find a suitable one to match your style and needs.
In fact, the opposite is usually true. An article of interest is found here.
We wish this was true as it would make our work easier, also. We, other companies and installers found out otherwise. GM engines feature broader compatibility and easier install-ability for fewer headaches and expense.
We really like many I6 engines. They are inherently smooth have good torque. But they usually don't have the torque or broad usability (meaning broad torque & horsepower curves) that good V6's and V8's have.
No. In fact, we can think of no Jeep swap we've ever done in our facility or where we've spoken with (literally thousands) of customers about theirs - where a body lift was required. Other companies have claimed that a body lift is needed. These companies need to install their engines/transmissions in the correct location and restate for the record.
Firewall mods are extremely rare and grille mods are unlikely.
Ok. If you are really going to stick to this conjured rule, then you will need to ditch these factory supplied components:
GM |
Hydramatic transmissions |
Ford |
Starters |
Chrysler |
Torqueflite transmissions |
Renault |
Renix EFI control systems |
Some folks confuse "I got this free engine" with brand loyalty and get a swap that doesn't acheive much more than aggravation.
Some of the hardest parts to swap into Jeeps are usually Jeep parts. It's counterintuitive but interchange between Jeep powertrain components is often difficult, and the benefits are usually unsubstantial and unjustifiable in terms of the effort and expense they create.
"Free" can be surprisingly expensive. Chances are, they were free for a good reason. If you're luckier than we usually are and it happens to be a free GM, Ford or maybe a Dodge engine, then you're starting to get warm...
We're talking about an engine swap here. Swap the motor because it makes good mechanical and economic sense. Making a statement here will probably cost in time, cash & nerves. Tried and true is very valuable.
There are virtually none, otherwise adapters and adaptation would probably not exist.
We use adapters, the OEM's used adapters - it's about getting the best stuff to fit together to build the best Jeep for your needs.
Good aftermarket adapters don't just adapt, anymore. They offer more compact, stronger, better clocked, better mounted powertrain systems.
Not always. Two issues are at play here: smaller (and numerically more) splines on a shaft are less expensive for manufacturers to roll forge in lieu of cutting the larger splines, thus the use of, e.g. 32 splines (rolled) in place of 10 splines (cut). It is the actual shaft diameter that has the largest effect on shaft strength. As another myth-defying example; a Jeep 23 spline shaft has a slightly larger minor diameter than a GM 27 spline shaft.
Maybe they are, but whether that matters in a practical sense is the real question. The engine itself is a crossmember, given the right mounts. Jeep frames are typically plenty strong and all of them already feature a factory crossmember just under the grille - only inches ahead of the engine mounts location. Crossmember mounts were used in the 1960's and 1970's, but have largely fallen out of favor with conversion tech's. Installers usually regret using cradle mounts, especially in terms of exhaust clearance, steering clearance, engine service, etc.